Sunday 1 June 2014

New Norcia - The monastic town with a great story

Cheerio folks,
On Sunday after an eventful week (it was Adeles 5th birthday, the oldest child of my host family and they had a big party) I finally made it to New Norcia, the only monastic town of Australia. At 8:45am I sat off in the Saab to the 140km journey up the Great Northern Highway in cloudy weather. After one hour and 45 minutes I arrived at 10:30am at the Museum & Art Gallery of New Norcia where you will be greeted by this.



I got a ticket for the 11am daily tour.
Due to the long weekend or maybe because it was not raining there were about 50 people on this walking tour. We got a short timeline of the history of the town and then walked past the girls' college, St. Gertrude's college. Not in use anymore but open for functions and other usages.


The tourguide Sue explained the history about the monks, the mission, the buildings and how certain crises have hit it over the last 140 years (like fires, robbery, lack of water and lack of money). She explained it very well and in a funny way too. That's always the best way to learn, don't you think?


In this little housing the mission and the relationship with the aborigines are illustrated. Here Sue gave us a very detailed insight into how the Spanish Benedictino monk Salvados (one of the two founders of New Norcia) found new ways to overcome supply shortage, water catchment issues and money troubles. It was a truly inspriational story and the way Salvados treated the aborigines (giving them houses, not taking away the children from the parents, giving them a lot of land, paying them wages, giving boys and girls education etc.) so completely different to the rest of Australia at that time.



We then walked past the monastery which is a restricted area where you are not allowed in. We peaked through the bars and one of the nine current monks walked past us.



After that we went into the Abbey church opposite the monastery. It is small and not the most beautiful churches but it serves it purpose and Sue of course had more stories to tell us about the drawings on the wall, the famous painting that prevented a fire and other things.




If you take part in the tour you are allowed past the altar and into the area where Salvados is buried. The chandelier, the paintings on the wall and the wooden banks, everything has been made by the monks themselves. Except for the organ which is a German Moser organ!




We crossed the highway and walked past this old flour mill. YES, this "street" is the Great Northern Highway...


And here is the bigger "new" flour mill. We walked inside and Sue who is not a technical person tried her best to explain how the process of making flour would work with a steam engine, a diesel-powered engine and later with an electric engine.



Next to the flour mill is the educational center which formerly has been the Aborigine boys' college. 


Then we walked to the boys' college, St. Ildephonsus. As impressive as the appearance of the building is, the chapel is much more impressive.




Then we walked back to the girls' college and also had a look into the smaller but nevertheless also beautiful chapel.




After this two-hour walking tour with lots of information it was time for lunch. Like most of the tour patrons I made my way up the small hill to the New Norcia Hotel.


And of course had a beer! But not any beer, no, the Abbey Ale! It was actually quite nice. Unfortunately I had to wait 50 (!!!) minutes for my soup.


At shortly before 3pm I walked back to the cemetery which is in between the girls' and the boys' college. Just so I can say I have seen it.


Well, and that is all there is to see (except maybe for the petrol station and the roadhouse) and I got on my way back to Manning where I arrived at 5pm.
Despite my low expectations I had a great day there and learned a lot. Especially the story how Salvados constantly fought the odds to keep the city and its mission alive and how human he treated the aborigines and respected their knowledge and culture has really touched me. I have only learned the complete opposite about this period of time in Australia in regards to the treatment of aborigines by the European settlers.
Tomorrow is Western Australia Day! Therefore I will head into the city to celebrate this.
Yours New-Norcia-appreciating Stefanie

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Have your say now! Would you do the same thing or would you do it differently? Do you have any travel tipps for me for my onwards travels? let me know!